Instruction

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Women in all ages were the main customers tailors. And pleasing women, tailors invented corsets - a special outfit that is pulled that is necessary to pull and to support what should be supported. Corsets did women like hourglass, but they had a slender waist and high chest.

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Modern corsets is not such a brutal building, as it was in the middle ages. Today it is not customary to pull the waistline up to neck size lover, as it was before. However, to have the waist fashionable today. Why sew today corsets in order to tweak the figure in some places.

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For sewing lingerie

**corset**you must first make**the pattern**. Spend some measurements of her figure, and measure the underbust girth (cm is at the lower bra strap), waist. Inch covers your waist in the place where you decided to place your waistline.4

If you want the waist to pull, reduce this size to the required number of inches, only within reasonable limits. Circumference of thighs centimeter passes through the protruding bones, the distance from the waist line to the point under the breast, the length of the product below the waist - measured along the side line from waist to hem, length below the waist line of the abdomen - measured in a sitting position line from the waist to the lower abdomen below the range do not interfere.

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A simple underwear corset consists of seven parts: the detail back with bend, side back part - 2 details, side front part - 2 pieces front - 2 details because there will be lacing. Take a sheet of paper (preferably of graph paper) and draw the rectangular grid of the future pattern. Across the width of the grid equal to the poluobhvat hips, along the length of the grid equal to the height of the product, which consists of measurements of the distance from waist to chest plus the length below the waist.

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Divide the horizontal line of the hips in half and draw a vertical line. It will be a lateral line

**of the corset**. Now on the left is the front**of the corset**, to the right of his ass. Divide the front**of the corset**in half and draw a vertical line. Will also split and the back**of the corset**. Locate the centers of the side parts**of the corset**, and swipe the dotted line. From her you will postpone the basic measurements.7

Divide the measure of poluobhvat under the breast into four and place the resulting inches on the upper segment. On the parts before received the inches are laid left to right from the leftmost point, on the details side this number is located on either side of the Central dashed line is equally divided (divided in half) on the back panels of 1/4 poluobhvat chest is deposited from right to left from the rightmost point.

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Similarly, put scoops of poluobhvat waist. Connect the lower points values of poluobhvat hips on every detail of the pattern

**of the corset**up respectively with the points of the waist and the underbust girth.9

Point height to the chest on the back (upper rightmost point) raise 2-3 cm up, point length from waist to hem back (right-lower point), down 2 cm down.

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Now a smooth line (you can use pattern) obtained circle

**pattern**along the top and bottom. The lateral parts of the circle as they were obtained after the calculations. Sign each item. Keep in mind that backless detail one, folded by the fold. To Troitsa she is also the only one.# Advice 2: How to build a mold

There are two types of templates: basic and detail. The basic

**pattern**is the basis for drawing the model. The elegance and fit of future products will depend on the accuracy of the underlying patterns. A method for constructing data patterns are the same for bulk and individual tailoring. A working**curve**is used for cutting products of a specific model and a specific size.You will need

- Tools for taking measurements, drafting tools, graph paper

Instruction

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Prepare for removal of accurate measurements with the human figure, for that is the

**pattern**. However, he should be wearing a dress made of thin fabric, horizontally slightly belted at the waist with a ribbon. Note, that you should always be measured from the back of a person when taking measurements of girths (measurements of chest girth – the tape is on the blades). Place in a horizontal position the tape on the protruding areas of the figure – the Breasts, the buttocks. Do not pull and do not keep them too loose measuring tape.2

Measurements with the main parts remove the following:Circumference of the chest at the outermost points of the blades and the chest;

Waist – waist (not pull the measuring tape);

The girth of the hips horizontally at the hip line (consider the topography of the abdomen);

Front length to waist – from the intersection of the shoulder line with the line of the circumference of the neck to the waist line (note the protrusion of the breast);

Back length to the waist – line extending upward from the waist;

Shoulder length – from base of neck to the line of the armhole (measure at the middle of the shoulder);

The width of the back from one hand at the more exposed points of the blades to the other (guided by the rear corners of the armpits);

Breast width – the same measurement of the width of the back (a tape measure, position so that she was held somewhere at 5 cm below the base of the neck, went on the bulge of the breast).

Waist – waist (not pull the measuring tape);

The girth of the hips horizontally at the hip line (consider the topography of the abdomen);

Front length to waist – from the intersection of the shoulder line with the line of the circumference of the neck to the waist line (note the protrusion of the breast);

Back length to the waist – line extending upward from the waist;

Shoulder length – from base of neck to the line of the armhole (measure at the middle of the shoulder);

The width of the back from one hand at the more exposed points of the blades to the other (guided by the rear corners of the armpits);

Breast width – the same measurement of the width of the back (a tape measure, position so that she was held somewhere at 5 cm below the base of the neck, went on the bulge of the breast).

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According to the obtained sizes build drawing patterns on graph paper. It can be used in this form, and can then be moved to a more comfortable material film, thin plastic. Remember that once carefully and properly build patterns you can sew many beautiful clothes.

# Advice 3: How to build the pattern of the vest

Vest — a versatile piece of clothing that remained popular for several centuries. Who came up with it, costume historians still argue. He was popular in Turkey, was part of the folk costume in many European countries, and now may be as part of the business three-piece suit and separate garment. Long and short, knitted and sewn, strong and with all sorts of jewelry styles very much, and every woman can come up with something original. But in any case, the vest is first necessary to cut.

You will need

- - pattern dresses or men's shirts;
- centimeter;
- - the range;
- pencil.

Instruction

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The pattern

**of the vest**, as well as many other articles, based on pattern dresses or men's shirts. It can be recovered from the log book in the Studio or build your own. If you don't already have such a versatile pattern — it's time to take care of her, because she will need again and again. To do this you need only front and back, so they can and limited.2

Remove the measurements. You need to know poluobhvat neck, chest, waist and hips, height and depth of the armhole, the shoulder length, the depth of Rostock. Build

**the pattern**of the dress. Better to do it on graph paper. Then the pattern can be transferred to the cardboard, because in this case you will need a paper**pattern**dresses to crop and make the mold from more durable material is necessary and in order to not have to bother with a cumbersome build next time.3

Measure the length

**of the vest**on the back. Ask your assistant to remove the measure from the 7th cervical vertebra to the presumed length**of the vest**. Mark this measure on the pattern, and draw through the obtained point a line parallel to the bottom line.4

A vest can make with patterns and without. It can be fitted and straight. If you make the fitted vest, please note all the folds that are on the dress pattern. But the vest can be without any undercuts, for example, some folk costumes. Short waistcoat, usually made fitted.

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Increase neck. For this set aside at the shoulder sections of the back and shelves of 2 cm and spend a curved line parallel to the line of the neck. From the extreme points of the neck aside the length of the shoulder.

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Mark the edge of a Board. To do this, from the middle of the shelves set aside 2 see Swipe through the resulting point a line parallel to the mid-shelf.

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Think about the style

**of vest**. In principle,**the pattern**can be left as it is. In this case, the vest will be cut under the neck". But you can make a traditional vest with V-neck. To do this, from the top of the neck (the point from which you started to defer the shoulder length) draw a line of the slant Board under the angle which you like best.8

For the construction of the pattern women's fitted

**vest**aside from the neckline down 5 cm in order to transfer the groove to the bulge of the breast. For casual jackets and men's vests is optional.Useful advice

If you are going to sew the vest with extended shoulder, aside from the extreme point of the neck a distance of 2-4 cm more than that of a conventional vest.

# Advice 4: How to build the pattern of the shorts

Shorts are a summer clothes. In addition, they are in daily life convenient and comfortable, at home, or, for example, sports training. However, their main purpose summer wear for different occasions. Women's shorts come in a variety of sizes and shapes – breeches below the knee, mini, loose, fitting, classic denim. In order to stand out from the crowd it is better to sew them yourself.

You will need

- graph paper for the construction of the pattern; ruler; pencil; scissors; pins; fabric – 1 m; elastic waistband; fleece; zip-fastener (14 cm); decorative button

Instruction

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Produced using the tape measure the following measurements: the length of the shorts; waist circumference; thigh circumference; the circumference of the girth of the place where the length of the shorts. For the construction of the pattern of the shorts, you need to decide what kind of fabric will be produced the shorts and which model you prefer. After that, go to the construction of patterns.

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Build the pattern of the trousers the correct model. The construction pattern of the shorts is based on the transformation of the pattern of the pants. And then, on the basis of the created patterns raschertite the pattern of the shorts. To do this, spend a horizontal line across the pattern long pants (the distance depends on the desired long shorts). Then cut the lower part of the pattern (final long leg) and attach a new piece of graph paper to create a pattern roll edge, at what width should be slightly greater than the width of the leg produced a short line final length.

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Swipe below the final length of the shorts three parallel lines. One draw at a distance of 4 cm from the line of finite length, the second, retreating to 4 cm from the first line, and a third, departing at 2 cm from the second line. All the extra paper below 3 lines cut. Then fold the pattern at the location of the three drawn lines. Note the continuation of the edge line with the main patterns of the shorts on podvoroty. And again cut all the excess paper along this line.

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Transfer the completed pattern to the fabric, to do this, apply a paper pattern directly onto the fabric and cut out all of the details on the fabric, adding 1 cm from each edge of the fabric for seams. Then connect all the details of the stitches, while not touching the podvoroty. Then prostrochite all the edges of the joint on the machine and secure podvoroty, prostraciya through the continuation of the seam which connects the parts of the shorts. Then insert the zipper, prostracii machine stitch from the wrong side and sew a button.

# Advice 5: How to build a pattern vests

Patterns of various garments can be found in magazines about sewing and thematic web-sites. You just need to copy the drawing and lay the line along the planned lines. however, you may find that the finished garment doesn't fit very well – after all, it is designed for the average consumer. To sew a closet with the features of your figure, learn to build patterns of their own. You can start with simple models of vests.

Instruction

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Take the paper patterns. In the upper left corner point A. put her straight down draw a line. Its length should equal the desired length of the

**vest**. To define it, slide the measuring tape from the shoulder across the chest to hip.2

From the extreme point of the segment, draw a perpendicular right. Its length corresponds to the poluobhvat hips. To this value must be added the allowance for the free fit. The value of the Supplement depends on how loose or tight the vest you want to sew.

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Finish

**the pattern**to the rectangle by drawing two side – by side and top. Duplicate this drawing one more time – pattern to back and front differ.4

Draw the neck by drawing back. On the upper side of the rectangle from a point And lay aside a third of the circumference of the neck. On the left side down from the corner on the 2 see Connect these points by an arc.

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The width of the neck at the front do the same. Its depth and shape depend on your preferences.

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Draw the openings on both parts. In order not to calculate their sizes, copy the openings of a shirt or jacket, add them to the pattern and trace. Do the same with Darts at the bust.

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Around the perimeter of both patterns add a 2.5 cm seam. When cutting out one half of the front extend 2-3 cm to make space for the hinges or buttons.

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The arm openings and the neck can be treated with bias binding. In this case, the seam in these places, a pattern to ignore.

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You can decorate a vest patch or Welt pockets. Make them a separate

**pattern**. If selected, Welt pockets mark in the drawing, the cut and make**a pattern**for the inner part of the pocket (2 identical parts). Patch pocket, draw a square or zakruglenie its lower part, then all the way around add allowances.10

If you plan to use

**the pattern**more than once, draw it on thick polyethylene, and opposite each side of the write with a permanent marker how you calculate its size.# Advice 6: How to build a pattern-based dresses

To make a dress that would perfectly sit on your figure, you must have a good pattern. To build a pattern-based, with which you will be able to create a variety of models you can own.

You will need

- - the drawing paper;
- - the tape;
- - the range;
- pencil;
- - a pair of scissors.

Instruction

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To build good patterns-the basis of adjacent silhouette dress, you will need to take and record measurements: - poluobhvat neck, poluobhvat chest, poluobhvat waist, poluobhvat hips, length of back to waist, shoulder width, rear height of the openings, the height of the oblique shoulder and the length of the product. All values are recorded in centimeters.

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Build a pattern of the back.

On Whatman paper on the left side, draw a straight angle. Label the vertex of the angle point A. From this point put down: measure the height of the openings in the back minus one centimeter (point G), measure the length of the back to the waist minus one inch (point T), the measure of the length of the product (point N). Put down from point T the height of the hip line (20 inches for all sizes). Label the point B. Through the points G, T, B and H, draw a horizontal straight. From the point And put down a 2.5 cm for all sizes (depth of the neck at the back). Designate a point A1, and to the right of And set aside a third of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 5 mm (point A2). Connect the points A1 and A2 is a smooth line.

For registration of the line of the shoulders put to the right of the point A the measure of the shoulder width minus 5 mm (point A3). From A3 to put it perpendicular to the line to the breast line (point G1). From point T draw a arc, the radius of which is equal measure - the height of the shoulder slash. A point on the intersection segment А3Г1 designate by the letter P. Connect the dots A3 and P.

For registration of openings put to the right of the point G is divided into two value measurements of poluobhvat chest minus one centimeter (point G2). In order to draw a line armhole find a few more points. Put the 0.15 cut Г1П up from G1 (point P1). Next, cut 0,4 Г1П (point P2). From P2 put the left 1.2 cm (point P3). Connect L1, L2 and L3 smooth line.

For design of lateral a-line backless aside from the point T to the right is divided into two value measurements of poluobhvat waist plus one inch (point T1). Then to the right of point B, build is divided into two values, measurements of poluobhvat hips, minus one inch (point B1). Spend a perpendicular from point B1 down. The point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1. Now complete lateral line. Connect the dots G2, and T1 is a straight line, the points T1 and B1 - smooth, and the points B1 and N1 - line.

On Whatman paper on the left side, draw a straight angle. Label the vertex of the angle point A. From this point put down: measure the height of the openings in the back minus one centimeter (point G), measure the length of the back to the waist minus one inch (point T), the measure of the length of the product (point N). Put down from point T the height of the hip line (20 inches for all sizes). Label the point B. Through the points G, T, B and H, draw a horizontal straight. From the point And put down a 2.5 cm for all sizes (depth of the neck at the back). Designate a point A1, and to the right of And set aside a third of the measurements of poluobhvat neck plus 5 mm (point A2). Connect the points A1 and A2 is a smooth line.

For registration of the line of the shoulders put to the right of the point A the measure of the shoulder width minus 5 mm (point A3). From A3 to put it perpendicular to the line to the breast line (point G1). From point T draw a arc, the radius of which is equal measure - the height of the shoulder slash. A point on the intersection segment А3Г1 designate by the letter P. Connect the dots A3 and P.

For registration of openings put to the right of the point G is divided into two value measurements of poluobhvat chest minus one centimeter (point G2). In order to draw a line armhole find a few more points. Put the 0.15 cut Г1П up from G1 (point P1). Next, cut 0,4 Г1П (point P2). From P2 put the left 1.2 cm (point P3). Connect L1, L2 and L3 smooth line.

For design of lateral a-line backless aside from the point T to the right is divided into two value measurements of poluobhvat waist plus one inch (point T1). Then to the right of point B, build is divided into two values, measurements of poluobhvat hips, minus one inch (point B1). Spend a perpendicular from point B1 down. The point of intersection with the line of the bottom indicate H1. Now complete lateral line. Connect the dots G2, and T1 is a straight line, the points T1 and B1 - smooth, and the points B1 and N1 - line.

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Build a pattern of the front.

On the same piece of the swipe from the right side of the vertical line. Mark the points of intersection with horizontal lines. Name upper point In the intersection line of the chest – point G3, with waist – T2, hips – B2 and the bottom line is – H2.

Put the left point wide measurements of poluobhvat neck, adding to her 5 mm (point B1). Aside from the points down To 7 cm (depth of the neck at the front for all sizes), point label B2. Connect the dots B1 and B2 smooth line, making the neckline of the front.

For the shoulder line will be left aside from a point In the segment is equal to AA3 (point P4). From this point, we drop down a perpendicular segment equal to the segment А3П (point P5). Connect the dots B1 and A5.

To put openings to the left of the point G3 is divided into two value measurements of poluobhvat chest minus one centimeter (point label G5). Then put up from the point G4 0,07 cut Г4П5 (point P6). Aside from the point G4 again 0,35 cut Г4П5 (A7 label). Aside right from that point of 2 cm and make a line of openings, connect the dots G5, P6, P7 and P5 a smooth line.

Side line shelves build in the same way as for the back.

On the same piece of the swipe from the right side of the vertical line. Mark the points of intersection with horizontal lines. Name upper point In the intersection line of the chest – point G3, with waist – T2, hips – B2 and the bottom line is – H2.

Put the left point wide measurements of poluobhvat neck, adding to her 5 mm (point B1). Aside from the points down To 7 cm (depth of the neck at the front for all sizes), point label B2. Connect the dots B1 and B2 smooth line, making the neckline of the front.

For the shoulder line will be left aside from a point In the segment is equal to AA3 (point P4). From this point, we drop down a perpendicular segment equal to the segment А3П (point P5). Connect the dots B1 and A5.

To put openings to the left of the point G3 is divided into two value measurements of poluobhvat chest minus one centimeter (point label G5). Then put up from the point G4 0,07 cut Г4П5 (point P6). Aside from the point G4 again 0,35 cut Г4П5 (A7 label). Aside right from that point of 2 cm and make a line of openings, connect the dots G5, P6, P7 and P5 a smooth line.

Side line shelves build in the same way as for the back.

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Pattern-based dresses are ready. On it you'll be able to make a variety of dresses of thin or thick knitwear, knitted cloths or stretch fabrics.

Note

Building patterns the basics of dress: the front half. The construction starts from the right corner. To find this point from the first point (upper left) to postpone such a distance that is equal to the poluobhvat chest + add on the chest.

Useful advice

We offer a range of Building patterns-the basics of skirts, Building patterns-the basis of women's dresses, Building dress patterns-foundations of women's pants, Building patterns-foundations blouses, Building patterns-the fundamentals of men's shirts, the Construction of a pattern-basics jacket. Here you will find everything you need to build the pattern, with the most detailed, and most importantly, understandable! instructions.