Advice 1: How to age brass

Brass is a very popular material for making various decorative products. It is much cheaper bronze. Made of brass which is an alloy of copper and zinc, usually do candle holders, furniture accessories, small sculpture, which looks elegant in the interior. Usually these things are antique. However, externally, the new brass stuff is very very different from really old. They have no oxide layer, giving the product a special elegance and mystique.
How to age brass
You will need
  • brass product;
  • - gasoline;
  • - turpentine;
  • - sawdust;
  • - soft cotton cloth;
  • woolen cloth or felt;
  • - carbon-copper;
  • - ammonium carbonate;
  • - nitrate of iron;
  • - ammonia;
  • - sodium thiosulfate;
  • water;
  • - glassware;
  • - volumetric beaker;
  • laboratory or pharmacy scales with weights.
Brass product can be tinted to the desired degree of blackening of the surface in the following way. Mix 60 g of copper carbonate with 500 ml of liquid ammonia. Pour the solution into a jar containing 1 l of distilled water. Once again, stir and immerse the pre-skim of gasoline product in the resulting composition. Lower it face up. The process of blackening (oxidation) is necessary to control visually.
Upon reaching the desired color, remove the item and rinse it in cold tap water. Dry it in a wood sawdust. If necessary, slightly zapolarie protruding parts of the relief with a piece of stiff fabric. Wipe the finished product with turpentine and dry it again. For durability color can be cover the item with clear varnish.
Brass product can be painted in dark brown color. Dissolve 10 g of ferric nitrate in 1 liter of water. As in the previous case, wipe the item with gasoline, dry and dip in a container of solution. Keep it there until it turns the desired color. Then proceed exactly the same as in the first case.
If you want to give brass a reddish-brown color, apply this composition. 6 g of iron nitrate and 6 g of sodium thiosulfate dissolved in 100 ml of water. Product degrease, dry in sawdust, soak in a vessel with the solution and wait until it has reached the desired shade. Dry and Zapolarye
You can give the product brass and a slightly greenish color, making it look like antique bronze. This is best done with a darker brass alloy with higher copper content. Take, for solution 10 ml of liquid ammonia, 30 grams of ammonium carbonate, 240 g of water. In this solution a subject, you can keep up to 8-10 hours, constantly controlling the degree of staining. After drying the product in air you can repeat the process, this will enhance colour.
Useful advice
All work with ammonia should be carried out in conditions of good ventilation. It is best to use a fume cupboard. It is recommended to use protective gloves and glasses.

Ammonia can be purchased at the pharmacy. All other reagents are sold in stores chemicals or through online shopping. Choose a marking KHCH, H or analytical grade.

Advice 2 : How to solder brass

Working with metals is not only working on the production, but also ordinary people at home or in their own workshops. The master, making a variety of things – from decorations to technical devices often use solder, connecting wires and metal parts, and they are often faced with the need to solder brass details.
How to solder brass
You will need
  • - gas burner,
  • graphite crucible,
  • - silver
  • - copper,
  • - boric acid,
  • - borax,
  • - base made of asbestos.
Usual tin soldering is not suitable for brass – it leaves a noticeable footprint, and very low strength. In brazing brass is to use another, more reliable method. In order to solder the brass parts, you'll need a gas torch and a graphite crucible, silver, copper, boric acid, borax and a base of asbestos.
Solder for brass manufacture of one part copper and two parts of silver, mixed up and dumping them together on a gas burner in a graphite crucible. The crucible is put in cold water and remove the melted and solidified solder. Flatten it and cut or grind the solder from the chips using a large file.
Twenty gram of powder of borax and twenty grams of boric acid manufacture flux, a mixture of Bay powder with 250 ml of water.
Brass parts, which you want to solder, put on an asbestos base and dampen flux from boric acid and borax. Then sprinkle with the connection of the parts with pieces of solder that you sharpened beforehand, and then begin to gently heat the connection with a gas burner.
Gradually bring the temperature up to seven degrees. Follow temperature burners – not to overheat the brass, not to spoil the details. If you solder a large and massive parts, warm them gradually; if the components are small and thin, remember that they heat up very quickly. This method of soldering is more difficult than normal soldering tin, but it has a high strength and coupling with brass details.

Advice 3 : How to distinguish brass from bronze

To distinguish bronze from brass and, moreover, to determine the exact composition of the alloy is possible only in special laboratories (e.g., methods, spectroscopic analysis). Unfortunately, at home (especially when it is impossible to cause scratches or otherwise damage the object) the range of possibilities will be quite limited. However, there is an algorithm that gives even an approximate, but still results.
How to distinguish brass from bronze
You will need
  • Accurate scales and a transparent graduated container with water; a calculator; a strong magnifier or a microscope, samples of bronze and brass chipped.
Start with visual analysis. You must thoroughly clean the item and place into the sunlight. As a rule, the darker bronze of brass, and, if you evaluate the color, the bronze goes into the "red" spectrum (i.e. from reddish to brown) and brass in yellow up to white. However, this method is extremely inaccurate, so proceed to the next step.
Analyze the alloy density. You will need accurate scales and a transparent, graduated container with water. Lowering of the object in water is determined by its volume, weighing a lot. Density is the ratio of body mass to its volume, and transfer format C (kg/ cubic meter). Typically, bronze is denser than brass, and the dividing line lies at the value of 8700 kg/cu. m. 8400 – 8700 kg/cubic meter – almost certainly brass. 8750 – 8900 – almost certainly bronze.
Finally, the structure of the alloy. It should be noted that what is needed are samples of items which can be uniquely identified as bronze and brass; the samples must be chipped.
For the actual analysis will need a strong (preferably binocular) microscope or magnifying glass (even children). The analysis is placed in view at the same time sample (cleavage) and the object of analysis. What we should look for? On the structure of the alloy – as they say, his "grain". Generally, bronze is larger and more coarse grain than the brass.
Bronze and brass are alloys based on copper (about 90%).
Typically, the main alloying element in bronze is tin, for brass – zinc. This is in principle true for the alloys made before the beginning of the 1980s (that is, the task was limited to the identification of zinc in the alloy). Later, however, the zinc began to enter into the composition of bronze, so the measurement is now based on complicated methods of determining the percentage of elements in the alloy, which is practically impossible at home.

Advice 4 : How to age copper

Interior designers and people involved in the manufacturing of jewelry, you know, how attractive is the aged copper. Vintage jewelry and vintage accessories are all the rage. In order to get them, it is not necessary to wait long, you can quickly age copper artificially.
How to age copper
You will need
  • Copper product
  • ammonia,
  • medium-grained nail file or fine sandpaper,
  • lid from a glass jar,
  • the cap from a bottle
  • saucer,
  • plastic or glass container.
To quickly wear out the copper, you need to handle it in a special way. Depending on the size of the product, you may need medium glass nail file or fine sandpaper. Treat new copper product with sandpaper or a nail file. If you treat the fittings for making jewelry, take a brush and apply the copper over the entire surface so that it looked scratched, but was not rough. If the hardware is rough, it will cling to clothes. If it is a large copper products, treat the entire surface equally. Most sand paper protruding, sharp places, as well as deepen and fine details. However, try not to leave a completely raw sandpaper.
Further, in order to quickly wear out the copper, it is necessary to achieve oxidation. In order to oxidize the copper items, you'll need ammonia. In its pure form does not occur, but you can always buy ammonia that is the ammonia in the water. Buy ammonia at any pharmacy. Next, you need to find a plastic or glass container, comparable to the size of the processed copper products. Take this container and put (deliver) there is a copper item that you wish to wear out. Take the cap from the bottle, if you want to put accessories or other small copper objects, and pour ammonia. If you process larger product, take a saucer or the lid from a small glass jar, and pour ammonia over there. Put the cap or container with ammonia in the same container, where it lies, or copper ware. Tightly close the lid and wait. After a while you will see that the copper has been darkened and no longer looks new.
Avoid getting ammonia in eyes and on mucous membranes. It can cause burns. In case of ingress of ammonia into eyes, rinse well with water or solution of boric acid (5%).
Useful advice
If you want the oxidation reaction was faster, gently reheat the container in which the workpiece is made of copper. Copper will darken even faster with increasing temperature. However, do not dip copper in ammonia, and do not wipe them with copper to speed up the process.

Advice 5 : How to solder brass

A lot of people use for soldering brass ordinary soldering iron and tin solder, however, this method has three significant drawbacks: quite noticeable seam, which is also still quite weak, tin in the black may behave quite differently, as brass, and then the seam will turn a different color. Use the method of brazing brass with the use of a gas burner, special solder and flux.
How to solder brass
You will need
  • - gas burner;
  • - silver;
  • - copper;
  • - asbestos base;
  • - graphite crucible;
  • - borax;
  • - boric acid.
Beginning to fabricate the solder. It should be composed of 2 parts silver (you can use silver spoon) and 1 part copper. Both alloy metal using gas torch, to do this, take the required amount of both metals, place them in a crucible made of graphite and warm all this burner. After the metals are melted, stir them with the steel wire. Solders ready. Now cool it, flatten on the anvil and cut into small pieces.
Take borax powder (20 grams) and boric acid (powder, about 20 grams). Stir the mixture, pour one Cup of water and boil to make it better dissolved. The flux is ready. Don't be afraid, boric acid will not harm neither your hands nor the tools.
Now proceed directly to solder. Braze on a heat-resistant objects, for example, suitable asbestos plate. Put her details for soldering, spray them with the flux, lightly sprinkle flakes of solder and begin a gradual heating, first, the solder will grab the details, and then to red heat (about 700 degrees). Here the main thing not to overheat, because the difference of the melting point of the solder and brass parts is only 50 degrees. Also remember that small parts melt faster than larger, so warm slowly to major the item is warmed, and the fine is not melted.
The last stage of removal from the product of the flux residues. To do this, simply wash the product in hot 3% solution of sulfuric acid. Just tie it to the product something that will not interact with acid, put the product in acid for a few minutes, then rinse with running water. Please note that in this method of melting is to use the soldering iron will not work, since the melting point of the solder is 700 degrees, and the soldering iron gives only 200-250.

Advice 6 : As to age thing

Old antique things have a special beauty and charm, but "grandma's" furniture is not at all, and is a real "antique" is very expensive. There is a fairly simple way out of this situation — it is necessary to artificially wear out your furniture. It doesn't take a lot of time and effort, and buying the materials that you will need to work, not much hit on the wallet.
As to age thing
You will need
  • - emery emery cloth;
  • - the ground;
  • - acrylic paint;
  • - candle;
  • - varnish for cracking;
  • - metal brush.
For aging good things from wood, ceramics, brass, glass and wrought iron. Give a touch of antiquity of wooden furniture. Take the object, clean it from dust and sanded paint and varnish. Sandpaper is better to take large, it can help you work faster. Swipe all the debris from the surface and clean workplace, to particles of old paint will not stick to the new layers.
Cover the thing with soil suitable mixture of PVA glue with white acrylic enamel. Allow the surface to dry. Then cover the piece of furniture brown acrylic paint. Apply two coats of this tool. Leave overnight so that the paint has well dried out.
Paraffin or wax RUB all edges and corners of the product. Select the color of your future "antique" furniture. Looks good pale pink or ivory. Create your own color by mixing white paint with the color. A few drops added to the Bank, would be sufficient.
Brown Foundation should completely disappear under layers of new paint, these layers can be from two to four. Don't forget to dry well each layer.
Take the sandpaper with the grain to 800. Sanded the places that you rubbed the candle. Basic paint will wear away and expose brown. Satilite carefully to avoid "burrs". For greater reliability of work is uneven, somewhere power trowel is stronger in other areas do only a hint of fading.
A soft brush clean the surface from dust. If you want to further decorate furniture, cut-out napkins floral patterns and stick on the selected place. Then cover the entire product matte varnish. This technique is called shabby chic.
Try to age the furniture with the help of brushing. Treat the surface with a wire brush, it will remove the soft wood fibers and clearly distinguish its texture. Apply a layer of paint, the color it should be dark. Without waiting, when the medium dries, RUB it deep into the pores and cracks of wood. All the wood structure will be clearly visible. Varnish for finishing treatment can take a variety of effects – metallic, mother-of-pearl.
Effectively things look aged crackle technique. Apply on furniture, new paint, and in a few minutes – tool to create cracks (craquelure). This can be a two-component varnish or paint. When you work with them be clear on the instructions, as the common recommendations for different funds.
Is the advice useful?