Possible causes of poor flowering
Shading is one of the most common reasons that plants do not bloom or bloom very little. In the dense shade poorly flowering lilacs, peonies. The same applies to some indoor plants: not enough light bloom Anthurium, poorly blooming geranium.
Poor flowering may be wrong planting plants. So the excessive penetration of the pion at planting may cause the plant will not bloom.
Oddly enough, sometimes the reason that the plants bloom poorly, is excessive feeding. When an excess of nitrogen fertilizer, many flowering shrubs are actively expanding leaves at the expense of flowering. In a similar manner react nitrogen potted geraniums and violets.
Incorrect pruning, or its absence can also affect flowering. Mock orange, forsythia, lilacs need regular pruning and rejuvenation. Exactly the same is recommended to rejuvenate potted geranium.
Ways to achieve flowering
In order to achieve a more lush flowering plants, which lacks light, should be transplanted to a more appropriate place. Houseplants can be moved together with the pots, and if this is not possible, to arrange additional lighting fluorescent lamp.
The landing pit for the pions is recommended to prepare a month before planting. During this time, the soil filled in the hole, has time to settle and rhizomes of peonies after planting, reaching the desired depth. If, after all, it turned out that the peony is planted too deeply, the Bush can be lifted with a spade or fork and pour the earth into the pit under the roots.
From flowering shrubs it is recommended to cut out old and diseased branches, shoots growing inside the shrub. The plant has long been trim, you should shorten the branches by one-third the length to obtain the young shoots, on which flower buds. Typically, such trimming is performed in early spring. The forsythia, as it blooms, the better to shape after flowering. Heavily overgrown bushes of peonies it is recommended to divide and transplant, the same should be done with the clematis.
Advice 2: Why not lilac blooms
A possible reason for the lack of flowering
Lilacs may not bloom due to excess shading. Best of all, this plant feels in well-lit areas of the garden and in the shade will grow but will not bloom. The lighting conditions can change due to new construction, which appeared on the site, or the grown tree, giving dense shade.
Incorrect pruning can also affect flowering of this shrub. If you break off the blossoms of lilac together with the shoots, which produce new flower buds, the plant will bloom only in a year. Overly dense shrubs will also stop flowering.
Lilac blooms worse due to the oversupply of nitrogen fertilizers and moisture. In addition, this shrub may freeze solid in the cold of winter.
Some varieties of lilacs propagated by planting buds on rootstock of lilac. If this plant will die vaccinated escape, will go into growth stock, but of course, its flowers will be different from the variety of lilac.
How to troubleshoot reasons why lilacs won't bloom
It is best even before planting of lilacs to choose for her a well-lit place in the garden with a low groundwater level. If it was found that the selected location is shaded, should be transplanted the hive to a more suitable site as soon as possible. Old lilacs can not tolerate a transplant, difficult to survive in the new place and, of course, long bloom. The same applies to young plants that are transplanted with exposed roots. It is best to plant the plants together with the soil clod.
To lilacs every spring, pleasing to the eye abundant flowering, it should be properly and timely crop. Young Bush is usually formed in plant height of a meter and a half meters, leaving him five or six skeletal branches. Dry branches and weak shoots growing inside the shrub should be removed. Vaccinated varietal lilac remove shoots appearing on the rootstock. This is done in early spring.
Cutting off blossoms of lilac, should be left to last year's thread a few emerging shoots. That they formed flower buds that will bloom next spring. Some gardeners recommend removing blossoms after the lilacs will Bud, giving seed to ripen.
Old, dense Bush of lilacs can be rejuvenated by cutting in early spring, dead branches and cut off the ends of the remaining, about a third the length.
Advice 3: Why not bloom peonies
Features of flowering peonies
If you only a year ago, we put peonies on your site, don't expect they'll bloom. After planting, the plants need to take root, grow tall stalks. Often the buds bloom only in the second year, however, the peonies should not spend their strength for flowering. Your task is to help the young plant to grow at least 3-x-6-high stems. The first of the buds have attained a diameter of about 8 mm, recommended to cut.
Planting material it is advisable to purchase from the experienced florists or flower shops and greenhouses to buy to find out if all the features of a particular variety. Some of the peonies (for example, some hybrids, dairy-flowered varieties and a number of red) first bloom only in 3rd and sometimes in 4th year. But what if it took 4-5 years after planting, the bushes look healthy, but don't produce buds?
Beginning of flowering peonies depends on the climate zone and variety. Some plants are spreading the buds from the end of may, in June, encouraging other flowers, even in mid-summer. If the Bush is planted in shade, flowering time will recede.
Peonies never bloomed: possible causes
You need to check whether planted flower beds. Distance from the uppermost buds of the rhizome to soil should be approximately 4 cm in loam and 6-7 on light soil. The roots of perennial built up the top and after weeding may seem from the ground. The fit should be neither too small nor recessed. Carefully atrebate the ground under the plant, check the feature landing and adjust the position of the rhizomes: remove excess soil or pricopie peony.
Not happy with flowering peonies, growing close to other plants with powerful roots or Foundation of the building – they cannot develop normally and receive enough nutrients. At the end of summer will have to dig up the flowers and make them out of standard segments rhizomes about 20 cm, with 3-5 kidney. Need to replant the peonies in a place where a lot of sun, but is protected from strong winds.
Experienced growers know that a beautiful flowerbed can be grown only from young plants, because after transplantation of adult plants forms a full root system. Maybe you used a weak or poor quality planting material. Whatever the reason why your peonies don't bloom for quite a long time after planting, wait until the end of August, dig up and transplant the plants to a new location.
Perennials have ceased to bloom: help the peonies
It happens that peonies several years to delight you with lush color, but one year does not give flowers. This may be several reasons. The most obvious one wrong cut peonies for bouquets. As emphasized by the growers, it is necessary to remove not more than 1/3 of all stems, and leave the bottom leaves, because it is at the base of the shoots takes place the formation of new buds.
Another possible reason that peonies don't bloom – the depletion of the soil. These plants are hard to consume meals with appearance of the first sprouts. After each flowering is necessary to make liquid fertilizer in a ring around the ditch, peony, and well-watered flowerbed. However, follow a simple rule: perennials a bit better to Supplement than to pay too much fertilizer otherwise the bushes will be juicy and powerful, but buds will not be pleased.
Recommended feeding for pions (at 1 m):
- in the first year after planting and 30 g of ammonium nitrate (and.with.), 15 g of the potassium salt (K. S.) and the same amount of superphosphate (p. f.);
- in the second year - 60 g.. 30 g of K. C. and 30 g. s. f.;
- from the third year onwards – 90 g.. 45 K. S. and S. f.
The reasons for the cessation of flowering peonies may be gray mold. Usually the disease affects plants at the top of summer. Often this happens due to the fact that the entire terrestrial part of the faded peony cut off, not waiting for late autumn. If the plant is sick, in late April, 2 times with 10 days intervals should be sprayed with a bed fungicides. Among the least toxic means of a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 3 g per ten-litre bucket of water, or colloidal sulphur (60 grams per bucket).
Some gardeners carry out prevention of Botrytis from pions by spraying landings infusion of crushed garlic (1 teaspoon on 1 l of water).
Peonies may not bloom once just because they got old. Preferably every 8 years to rejuvenate the bushes. To make it better in late August – early September. You should dig up the roots, remove the soil with a wooden peg and allow it to lie on the ground for 3 h. the Stems are trimmed to 10 cm in height. Young parts of the rhizome and roots with a diameter of about 4 cm need to cut them out, and damaged, old and sick to remove. To create a new flower bed, and constantly take care of your peonies – and they will make you happy.
Advice 4: Why not bloom room Jasmine
Jasmine room for abundant flowering should pass the cool winter. The temperature during winter should be about 8-10C. Daytime temperatures above 16-18 ° C by. In the winter months the plant will be comfortable in a cool room. Even lower temperature Jasmine can withstand, subject to a gentle watering. The most important thing is to protect the plant from heat and the drying effects of Central heating radiators.
Abundant flowering conducive to good lighting. In the summer it can be put in a Sunny place but out of direct scorching rays should be protected. Jasmine will like it if its in the summer went to live on fresh air without drafts and solar heat.
Watering is an important aspect of plant care. Jasmine watered and sprayed (not blooming) is not hard a little lukewarm water. You can even slightly acidify the water, so the water was not hard. At room conditions the plant put on the tray with wet expanded clay. This provides greater humidity. The plant likes moist soil but not wet. In the winter, be sure to dry the substrate before the next watering.
Fertilize potted Jasmine during active growth every two weeks flower feeding.
Transplant Jasmine in the spring in the standard soil. Choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. When the flower reaches the desired size, it is left to live permanently in the pot, annually removing a layer of soil 5-7cm and replacing with a new one.
Trim the flower should be immediately after flowering. Untie the plant stems from the wire ring, and remove weak and old stems, leaving 5cm from the soil. Healthy stems were cut by one third and side shoots, which are removed 1-2 buds. Again entwine around the wire ring and fix. New shoots grow back tied to the ring.
Under favorable care indoor Jasmine lives in the house long.