To determine the exact technical condition stands in the service station on the bench. The specialists will fix the car in a special area and will rapidly shake in all directions. The sensors measure operating characteristics of the stands and issue a decision on their further use or need a replacement.
This test alone cannot be performed. You can only push the car behind the wing and see damped oscillations. The car should swing once and stop. If it will swing more than 2 times, then stand completely faulty. The problem is that even in bad condition, the shock absorbers pass this test.
Therefore, self-diagnosis stands start with inspection of their appearance. All signs of leakage of oil from shock absorber testify to their faulty and need replacement. Next, listen to the suspension: the suspension is fully serviceable fully serviceable struts don't have to knock. Rate the quality of the suspension. Of course, this assessment is very subjective and depends on driving experience.
The necessity of in good the a-pillars are particularly important for front wheel drive cars. Any problem in the shock absorbers of the front wheels worsen the traction, increase braking distances, make the car unstable in turns and when braking. When cornering, for example, a car may suddenly expand and throw into oncoming traffic or into a ditch. In addition, faulty shock absorbers cause the tyre and wheel bearings to wear out ten times faster.
Dampers should also be changed at the end of its life. Its duration depends not only on the quality of manufacture, type and model of shock absorbers, but also on the operating conditions. For example, in the winter time in the beginning of the movement it is recommended the first 1-2 kilometers to pass with reasonable speed. This will help to warm up the rack. If this is not done, they can quickly fail.
The average period of use of racks is 30-50 thousand miles. In rare cases, they can serve up to 70-80 thousand. They can pass all the tests as normal, but suddenly fail in a critical situation. Therefore, even serviceable for all performance shocks should be changed on time, not waiting for an emergency.
Advice 2: How to change the clutch
The clutch mechanism is designed to transmit the engine torque transmission. In essence the clutch is a mediator between motor and mechanical gearbox. In cases of equipment of cars with automatic transmission – the clutch they have, as such, is absent.
You will need
- - head wrench 8 mm,
- drift of non-ferrous metal,
- - the transaxle input shaft (used).
Women prefer cars with "automatic" and most men prefer a machine with a reliable "mechanics", following the principle: "the simpler - the more reliable".
Is the clutch mechanism of the two disks: master (called the "clutch basket") and slave - with friction pads, which eventually wear out, especially while driving in extreme road conditions. That sometimes requires a complete clutch replacement.
To change the clutch can be directly on the machine after removing the box changes gear, but much easier on a rented motor, for example, during the current or capital repair of the engine.
To replace both clutch discs, head 8 mm Unscrew the M6 bolts are designed for attaching the drive plate to the engine flywheel.
At this stage, before you begin to dismantle the "clutch", the mounting bolts should be applied two or three blows with a hammer through a spacer of non-ferrous metal. That will protect against cross-threading in the holes of the flywheel.
Further, consistently, no more than one turn at a time, gradually turned all six bolts.
Then both the old clutch removed, and instead installed a new one.
Inserting roller transmission through a splined clutch driven plate in the flywheel bearings, a full tightening of the drive plate, after which the roller is removed therefrom. The procedure for replacing the clutch is complete.
Advice 3: When you need to change the clutch
To drive a car with a faulty clutchm is not recommended, because it can lead to very unpleasant consequences. To increase your chances of getting into a car accident, change grip in time.
First, but not always a clear sign that the clutch is time to change, is the squeak when pressing the pedal. Try to squeeze the clutch, and listen. If you hear creaking, then it's time to visit service center. Please note that the appearance of difficulty is not the surest sign of the output clutch failure. Sometimes the creaking of the mechanism, take, for example, the creaking of the rubber Mat that appears when you press the pedal. That is why you should make sure that the cause of the squeaking is the clutch and not anything else. But in any case, if it is possible to make a diagnosis, should do it. Additional feature which may be accompanied by the creaking is noticeable twitch of the pedal. His appearance already clearly indicates the need to repair or replace the clutch.
The most obvious and sure sign of the output clutch failure is the appearance of the characteristic smell of burning plastic. To confuse, or, worse, not notice the smell is almost impossible. Note that when the clutch starts to burn, you will not have a lot of time on its replacement. Once the smell of burning plastic, you should immediately go to the service center or you can change the clutch yourself.
You will immediately understand that a clutch is not all right, when will the problem with the gear shift. The clutch pedal will be much harder to squeeze, and then become hard to shift gears. As a rule, in the first place there are difficulties with the inclusion of first and reverse gears. And finally, switching gears will be quite impossible box and clutch just stop you "listen". Up to this stage it is better not to bring: as soon as you notice that the gear shift became difficult, to urgently engage in the diagnosis and repair or replacement of the clutch.
Advice 4: How to change wheel bearing
Bearing is an indispensable element of any moveable structure. It is part of a support or stop supporting the shaft, the axis with the required rigidity. In accordance with its name wheel hub bearing is part of hub – disk, we need to strengthen the automotive wheel on the axis.
According to the classification wheel bearings refer to bearingm rolling, consisting of two rings, rolling elements and cage, which separates the rolling elements from each other. Most often used in wheel hub double row angular contact, single row deep groove ball and single row tapered roller bearings. Wheel bearings are for the front and rear wheels. They are characterized by high strength and durability to withstand very heavy loads. The reason of their failure can be improper installation.
To avoid this, do not use sharp tools that may damage the surface and integrity of the bearing and cause oil leaks. If you want to press a bearing to the force being transmitted through rolling elements, use the locking pin or clip old parts.
When you install a conical bearing at first correctly adjust the gap on it. If the clearance is too small, the element will overheat. However, a large gap can also cause breakage. About problems with wheel bearings usually shows the characteristic background noise – a clatter or buzzing around the body, right or left.
For a more accurate determination of fault locations will consign the car to the nearest service station, where there is a special stand. There enable a higher gear, give maximum revs and stop the engine. Then you can hear noises from faulty bearings. Diagnosis usually does not take much time.
The procedure of replacing both the front and rear bearings are no different. As practice shows, it is better to replace the wheel bearings in the car with a hydraulic press. Self-replacement without special equipment does not guarantee quality. So, for example, dirt in the bearing can cause damage to the machine.