You will need
- - ceramic tiles;
- - glue for tiles ("Plitonit-Superquinn", "Skanfixsuper", etc.);
- - tool for plastering (trowel, putty knives, kirochka, and so on);
- - cement;
- - sand;
- - metal brush;
- mesh netting or soft wire Ø1-2 mm;
- - an electric drill;
- - pobeditovye drills.
Clean oven from clay or cement plaster to the base. This work should be undertaken carefully, on the surface of the bricks should not be clay or cement mortar. Remove the clay from joints to a depth of 5-10 mm. Cleaning of the furnace is convenient to run a wire brush or abrasive wheel mounted on angle grinder.
Attach to furnace a metal reinforcement grid. For this hammer in the joints between the bricks nails so that their hats towered above the surface 10-12 mm. you Can drill holes in the body of the bricks and wrap them screws or screws, the diameter of which is slightly larger than the diameter of the holes. Attach nails or screws to the grid "netting". If not, navathe nails wire netting with mesh sizes of 50-60 mm.
Stukatura surface of the furnace sand-cement mortar or adhesive. In the first case, use the ratio 1:2,5 or 1:3 (cement:sand). Brand of cement shall be not below M400. The sand must not contain clay and other impurities, it is best to use a clean river. When applying a hot-melt adhesive as a plaster mix should be used in accordance with the instructions, completing all her requirements for the thickness of the layers. Depending on the brand of glue you may need pre-priming of the seams and multi-layered plaster with breaks between application layers. Plaster needs to hide the reinforcement mesh. The surface of the furnace after plastering should be smooth, its angles are vertical.
Attach to the wall of the furnace rail wooden rail so that its upper edge was from the floor at a distance not exceeding the width of the tiles. Check its levelness. The purpose of Reiki is to ensure the horizontal rows. If you start laying directly from the floor, in case it bumps all the rows will get also rough.
Prepare glue. Pour the mixture into the prepared container, add the required amount of water and stir well. The exact procedure of the preparation adhesive, saving them working qualities, etc. indicated in the instructions. You need to prepare not more than the number that you will be able to use before it loses plasticity. Some require pre-glue is applied to the plaster primers.
Laying the tiles start from the "apparent" angle of the furnace from the second row from the bottom (of guide rail). The clutch is simultaneously up and to the side. Apply glue to the wide flat spatula, smoothed it over better gear. The thickness of the glue is regulated by the instruction. To maintain the same gap between the rows you can use the remote crosses, do not forget to remove them before grouting. After lining the entire surface, carefully remove the guide rail and place the bottom row of tiles, performing necessary pruning.
Grouting is carried out after some time, it must be specified in the instructions to thermokey. Sometimes before grout takes a few times to heat the stove, not warming her up to high temperatures. Most grout is used with the same adhesive used for gluing tiles. Seams convenient to fill in with a rubber spatula, due to its flexibility. Excess grout removed from the tiles with a damp cloth.
Tile laid on the stove operates in a big temperature range, subjected to repeated heating and cooling. This is what caused the necessity of laying the reinforcing mesh in the plaster layer. If it is laying on the whole surface of the furnace difficult, just an area of the furnace.
Advice 2: How to lay tile in a bathroom where to start
Knowledge of the main points of the tile will allow you to perform independently a substantial portion of the repairs in the bathroom, as well as to monitor the actions of workers, if the finish is entrusted to professionals. Laying tile involves several stages - preparation of premises, preparation surface, preparation of the necessary instruments, directly laying and jointing.
You will need
- - the range;
- a mixer for mixing;
- special grout for joints;
- - sponge of soft foam;
- - a dry mixture or glue;
- - soap solution;
- - putty;
- - spatula with teeth;
- - wooden slats;
- - remote crosses;
- - the brush.
Before starting, make sure that the walls are strictly perpendicular to the ceiling and the floor, and the surface on which you will lay the tile, fairly smooth. The easiest and fastest way to verify this – check the level. If on the floor or the walls, old tiles, surmount it. And then align the surface under it.
Under the alignment, it is assumed the surface layer of plaster or moisture resistant gypsum Board. In the case of drywall, the process is more fast and easy. And to work with plaster you need to have special skills. Don't forget before applying the drywall or plaster to expose the landmarks (beacons) on the level. You can also focus on the vertical layers of plaster. This will help you to make the surface smooth. It should be noted that there is a lot of leveling compounds, which are designed specifically for the preparation of surfaces for laying tiles. Use them certainly possible and necessary, but only in the case when the surface curvature is almost not visible. In other cases, without plaster or drywall will not do.
The final stage of surface preparation is priming. However, tiles can be laid on a special adhesive mixture or a strong concrete base, then the surface can not be primed.
Start laying tile as soon as you prepare the surface and it will dry out. Be prepared for the fact that most likely a few bars will have to cut. To do this, choose the failed specimens. Before cutting soak the tiles in water. Then take a sharp putty knife or a regular knife, then with a force swipe across the slit several times. Then put the tile on the edge of the wooden beams, the stool and reverse the hands or pliers. This is the easiest method of trimming the tiles at home, but if you have professional equipment, you'd better use them.
Put on the lower surface of the tile adhesive. Do it sharp-toothed spatula, trying as hard as possible to scrape her teeth. Because scratches comes in adhesive and the tile is kept much safer. Then using the same spatula, smear the adhesive mixture to the surface and lay on her tile. To the distance between the seams were the same, use the remote crosses.
If you notice that any number of the tiles were crooked, you should take up his alignment. But it is better not to move the tile glued, because the glue will come out. So you don't have to do that constantly using a level, check how smooth turned surface.
Clean the seams from the glue when all the tiles will be laid. Then proceed to the jointing. Pointing is a special mix that is laid between the seams. It protects from water and moisture, and also played a decorative role. Before grouting make sure the pigment that is contained in the Fugue, does not contaminate the tile. Make the joints very carefully, carefully press the mortar into the joints with a spatula. First move at a right angle, and then cross-motion.
The final stage - processing of surfaces with a soap solution. Do it when the tile is laid and dry.
We should also talk about glue. It is one of the most important components, in addition to tiles. You can do 2 ways: make it yourself from dry powder or ready to buy. The first option is much cheaper, but for the beginners it is better to buy already made glue.
Advice 3: How to put ceramic tile on the walls
Ceramic tile is a decorative element that is very often used for lining walls in the bathroom or in the kitchen. The process of laying this material is quite complex and has its own characteristics. After reviewing them, you can easily make high-quality veneer walls yourself and still save money.
You will need
- - ceramic tiles;
- - plastic crosses for the separation of the tiles;
- - wooden slats;
- - putty;
- - painting the rail;
- - primer;
- - a wooden ruler;
- - pencil;
- - trowel;
- - grout for joints;
- dry cloth;
- - wet sponge.
First well prepare the wall you are going to lay the tile. Clean it from the old cover, and also from dust and dirt. Then, check whether the smooth wall. This vertically attach them to a special rail. If the surface deviates from it at least 5 mm, be sure to proceed to the alignment.
This can be done using putty. Using special paint rack, put it on the wall a two-centimeter layer and wait until it dries. If necessary, repeat the procedure. To grip the adhesive surface was better, it is recommended that primed the wall.
To simplify packing, mark the surface of the wall. Make a two-meter wooden slats line. To do this, lay the whole tiles in rows on the floor and insert them between the crosses. Place the ruler so that its edge coincides with the edge of the first tile. Note in pencil on the line of every tile. Measure the width of the wall , and locate its center point.
Horizontally attach a line to one of the markers coincides with this point. This will enable to determine how many whole tiles will fit on the wall. If you notice that the last tile of each row can fit only half or even less, slightly slide the center point. Move the line one space and then in the middle of the division set a new mark. Turn the ruler in a vertical position and draw a line.
Then mark horizontal lines. Nail to the wall the wooden slats that will play the role of guides. Attach a line to the vertical line so that it touches the floor, and make a mark on the top division. Then move it to the ceiling and you will see that the clicked point does not coincide with the division. Measure the distance between them and divide it by 2. This will cut the size of the tiles, ideally it needs to be not less than half tiles.
Hold the ruler parallel to the floor and move it until the division does not coincide with the point. Mark the edge of a ruler and draw through made mark a horizontal line. Nail her at the first wooden rail and the second parallel vertical lines. When the markup is done, proceed to laying the tiles.
Start with the bottom of the angle formed by the slats. With a trowel apply a small section a little glue. Flatten it, and then draw the notched side horizontal grooves. Take the first tile and attach it to the corner, carefully pressing it against the rails and the wall. Be careful when pressing the glue is not very strong off the end. Similarly, lay and the rest of the tile, splitting it between a plastic cross.
Wait until the glue thoroughly dries, remove the crosses, and start grouting. It is applied diagonally and as it is rubbed into the seams between the tiles. When the grout dries, use a dry cloth clean the tile. If in some places there are traces of the grout, use a damp sponge and then wipe the tiles dry.
Advice 4: Decorative tile under a brick – features, assortment, styling methods
Decorative tile with a design of a brick refers to a group of relatively new construction materials, which appeared on the market about 15 years ago. Initially it was used only for facing of facades of houses from the outside. And only later, after improvement of production technology, the designers have begun to actively use this material for internal furnish of walls.
Features decorative tile under a brick
This decorative veneer option as a tile under a brick is usually manufactured from plastic and light materials, it has an interesting texture and rich color palette. Tile brick and stone quickly became popular among consumers, who independently make repairs to their apartments and the professionals-builders and designers.
The main scope of the tiles is decoration of facades of buildings. But also it is successfully used and finishing works, for lining stoves and fireplaces. The range of products offered by manufacturers of building materials, allows to choose the most suitable option of tiles for any occasion. Whether you are going to make beautiful exterior wall of your home or have decided to redecorate one of the rooms, whether kitchen, living room, bathroom, loggia or balcony, a wide choice of tiles under a brick you have to satisfy. In specialized stores this range of material allows you to choose a tile that will fit perfectly in any interior.
Decorative tile under a brick is highly durable due to high firing temperature of the clay mass. Additionally, tile also has a rather low level of water absorption, about 3-6%. This is possible due to mixing in the production process of several types of clay and the technique of extrusion. These simple but important aspects of production are the cause of increasing the resistance of decorative material to temperature changes. Due to this particular tiles will not tarnish, and the wall, lined it retains for many years its original appearance.
In addition, this ceramic material has high resistance to frost. This is achieved through the combination of high strength and low water absorption. Strength does not allow penetrating water to break the material by freezing and low water absorption prevents the penetration of large amounts of water in the tile structure.
Use for decorating decorative tile under a brick will allow you to reduce the cost of construction by almost 2 times.
Methods of laying decorative tile under a brick
The option of laying tiles under a brick, if it is an internal type of finish, it is better to choose, focusing on the shape and size of the room. For the external finish of the building you take a bar and try several types of putting some tiles on it. So you will be able in a specific example, to see all of the pros and cons of the pattern and choose from many different ways and options most suitable.
The most popular method of laying tiles under a brick is basic. In this embodiment, ceramic elements lay parallel to the wall, attaching them to each other as tightly as possible. This method is the best fit for the popular loft style.
In addition, the basic installation method is the basis for creating other kinds of images. One of them is laying in the "diagonal". It is considered the most difficult but most interesting for this tile.
The method of laying "extension" (principle of masonry) is also quite popular, and for all types of ceramic tiles. It is particularly well suited in the case if the premises should be given the nature of the "antique", for example, to decorate a wall with fireplace. To create a pattern tile to lay so that its middle was located over the seam separating the tiles in the previous row. It should be remembered that such installation is possible only in horizontal rows.
A method of laying tiles under a brick "herringbone" looks very nice, interesting and unusual. This is similar to the method of laying flooring. It is ideal for use in those areas where the walls have a slightly irregular shape, i.e., located side by side.
If you treat people who prefer variety and don't like to follow exactly all the rules, you will probably like method called "combination of images". For example, the floor is laid out "Christmas tree", a wall drawing is performed "extension". Or the upper part of the wall is laid out by way of "extension" and the lower in the baseline template.
The picture on the wall and on the floor should not necessarily be repeated. You can experiment and combine as much as necessary.
For a small room well suited option of laying ceramic tile under a brick called "modular grid". This method is also great for beginners. However, do not forget to make the necessary calculations and to design the desired pattern. The modular styling looks great in a small room. The pattern is best to choose together with the designer and a specialist in laying tiles of high qualification. Refer to them for advice and listen to their advice. Today in stores you can buy a set of tiles and to obtain a credit card pattern. It will help you with the hard choice of method of laying tiles under a brick.