Advice 1: How to temper a spring

Heat treatment of the springs is that by heating steel to a certain temperature, holding at this temperature and subsequent cooling cause the desired change in the properties of the metal. One of the types of heat treatment of springs is their hardening.
How to temper a spring
Winding and tempering of springs is made from one heating to a temperature of 900 o C in a special oven. The heating time may range from 10 to 30 minutes, depending on the diameter of the rod blanks of the spring.
The winding of the springs from the heated rods in the production of small series lead on the lathe, screw-cutting lathe equipped with a special device for winding. Wound the spring is fed into the quenching drum, the rotational speed of which is determined taking into account the time required for a hardening spring that is determined by the diameter of the rod.
If from the point of view of technology fails to temper the spring from one heating after coiling it reheated for quenching. With mass production of springs of heating and quenching can be mechanized by installing next to the furnace quench tank and conveyor.
As a quenching medium is water at a temperature of about 40oC, and transformer oil at a temperature not higher than 60oC.
To improve mechanical properties and eliminate internal stresses after quenching are subjected to a spring vacation in a belt furnace. Interval between quenching and tempering shall not exceed four hours. Vacation is carried out at a temperature in the range of 480-520оС. Cooling springs are in water whose temperature does not exceed 100o C and the air indoors.
Residual deformation of the spring after quenching and annealing is removed after cooling of the metal with a single compression to the contact of the coils with aging in a few seconds.

Advice 2: How to temper steel

Hardening steel as the heat treatment is a complex process and causing internal and not visible to the naked eye changes in the structure of steel. But along with this hardened parts have properties quite visible: increased strength, sharpness, lower susceptibility to wear. It is known that a properly tempered knife blade or the edge of the sewing can successfully replace the glass cutter and store-bought tool sometimes requires "improvement". Surprisingly, with this magnitude of what is happening with the steel changes quenching in Amateur conditions it is possible. But the principle of all (not only home) of the methods of hardening is the heating of steel to a certain temperature and then rapidly cooled. Most affordable 2 way.
How to temper steel
You will need
  • * item for quenching;
  • * correlated with the size of the part capacity with any lubricating oil;
  • * correlated with the size of the part capacity with cold water;
  • * ticks;
  • * wax;
  • * fire (stove, gas burner)
For hardening of steel both ways to start detail it is necessary to properly warm up. Take it and put it in the campfire coals. If there is no fire - heat burner or on the stove. But note that for the process of hardening steel is highly recommended it is the coals, because their temperature is much higher than the temperature which can be obtained on the burner or stove.After some time (for example, to "warm up" the knife you'll need about 10-15 minutes), the item will become bright crimson in color, which means that the required temperature has been reached. Mites pull detail out of the fire.
According to the first method, 2 times in a row with an interval in 2-3 seconds dip it in a bowl with butter, leaving at the first dip for 3-4 seconds, the second for 5-6 seconds. Then dip the part in a container of water for the final cooling.
Acting on the second, more "compact" method, after heating the item soak in the wax. Immediately remove and repeat this step as long as your detail does not get cold enough to stop the wax to penetrate.
* along with the improvement of many properties of steel after hardening becomes much more fragile. Therefore, it is recommended to let her go;
* one and the same detail should not be hardened repeatedly. This leads to fatigue of the metal at which it loses the desired properties.
Useful advice
* if you harden, for example, the blade is not proclivity the entire part is heat just the cutting edge;
* if you're new to the hardening of steel, when heated, remove the item every 2-3 seconds. and control the color as there is a great danger of overheating or underheating. In the first case, the item turns white and becomes excessively brittle, and the second gets a bluish color and softened.
Is the advice useful?