Advice 1: How to put lightweight aggregate blocks

Masonry walls made of clay and other blocks is performed according to the same rules as the laying of brick walls. Ie should be ensured levelness, verticality, flatness and bandaging of seams. And given the fact that the walls of cellular concrete, as a rule, are plastered with the requirement of flatness of the outer surface may be even slightly reduced in comparison with the brickwork.
How to put lightweight aggregate blocks
You will need
  • – lightweight aggregate blocks;
  • – cement;
  • – sand;
  • – lime;
  • – wooden slats;
  • level;
  • tool bricklayer (trowel, kirochka, plumb, etc.).
Instruction
1
Prepare the base for stacking blocks. If it is a strip footing, ensure the levelness of the surface, eliminate local irregularities and position the waterproofing. If laying waterproofing is not required, it is strongly advisable to ensure horizontality. Local irregularities of the solution align the first seam.
2
Install on the corners of walls Reiki porjadovki. Their role can execute smooth wooden slats installed vertically at a distance of 5-8 mm from the corners and lines of the exterior walls. Mark on the rails the zero point corresponding to the level of the base, and apply a marker for dividing corresponding to the rows of masonry. The distance between the marks should equal the sum of the height of the block and thickness of the weld (10-12 mm). Pull the cord between the divisions of the first row – so that the distance from the outer surface of the wall was 5-8 mm.
3
Prepare mortar. Can be used as lime-cement and cement-sand mixture. However, the first is more warm, pliable and longer retains its working qualities. The ratio of components in cement-sand mortar may be 1:4 or 1:3 (cement:sand), lime-cement – 1:0,2:3 or 1:0,3:4 (cement:lime:sand).
4
Moisten the blocks with water. This can be done by spraying them with tap water from a hose in the pile. The degree of humidity must be such that the surface of blocks did not remain dry places, and at the same time all the water was absorbed by the surface of the blocks.
5
Put the solution on the base of the bed, the width of which should be a few inches narrower than the width of block, height of about 20 mm. apply the Solution right under some blocks, if the length of the wall is small (not more than 3 m), on the wall.
6
Lay the first block, starting from the corner of the wall. Press it into the mortar, simultaneously exposing its vertical edge at the position of Reiki-porjadovki, horizontal – on the tense cord. The final thickness should be 10-12 mm. Pick a trowel mortar, extruded from the seam.
7
When laying the second stone is put on its end surface facing to the previous block, mortar and push the stone on the wall, while pressing it to the base, and the previous block. In the same way placed all subsequent stones the first row with the obligatory leveling them up on the cord.
8
Reinstall the cord to one notch above. Laying the second row start with where you ended the first row. Provide shear joints (bandaging of seams) of the second row relative to the first pablaka. If the wall thickness is placed in a block, it is necessary to ensure the ligation and also by the width of the wall. Ie you need to put a row of the stretcher (long side along the wall), the second – poke (short side along the wall). The overlap of the seams in adjacent rows (height) should be a quarter of the block. Pay special attention to the bandaging of seams on the corners.
Useful advice
If the wall is supposed to be plastered, occasionally, remove mortar from joints to a depth of about 10 mm to ensure better adhesion of the block with a plaster layer.

Advice 2: How to make lightweight aggregate blocks

An indispensable material for the construction of small buildings are considered to be lightweight aggregate blocks. Due to the fact that in size they are somewhat more traditional building stone, the use of these blocks significantly reduces the time spent on the erection of the structure.
How to make lightweight aggregate blocks
You will need
  • water;
  • - sand;
  • - expanded clay;
  • - cement;
  • - vibrostanok;
  • - steel plate.
Instruction
1
Cook required for the manufacture of lightweight aggregate blocks of components (proportion of their ratio of the following: sand – 3 parts, the water is from 0,8 to 1 part cement 1 part and 6 parts of clay). In the mixer pour water, add clay, and then cement and sand. Mix all these components in a few minutes. After turning off the mixer the mixture should be of such concentration that it could take in hand, that is, it should not be liquid, and not crumbling in his hands.
2
Form lightweight aggregate block in vibrolance. For this purpose the molding, place the steel plate and fill required to complete the forming of the aggregate amount of the mixture. Then turn on the engine for vibration of the upper part of vibrolance. Remove excess aggregate mixture.
3
To lift steel plate with formed expanded clay lightweight concrete block, twist the arm vibrolance. Send the finished block for drying.
4
Dry lightweight aggregate block for two days. As a rule, after this time the unit will be ready.
5
After drying the blocks remove the steel plate and the unit is ready.
Note
At manufacturing keramzitobetonnyh blocks use only the highest quality components.
Useful advice
For the preparation of lightweight aggregate concrete blocks use expanded clay sand: it provides maximum conductivity. However, this component enables the structures built of aggregate concrete blocks, accumulate solar energy and then evenly distribute the heat. In view of this, built of expanded clay buildings in the summer is not hot, not cold in winter. As for clay, it is best to use the material of the fine fraction because the fine fraction expanded clay will provide superior geometry of the building block.

Advice 3: Why in the aching tooth put arsenic

To use arsenic in dental treatment started since the early 19th century for pain relief. Over time, the qualities and the principle of action of arsenic has been well studied, thereby created a temporary seal with a low arsenic content, which allowed us to carry out dental treatment and their subsequent retention.
Why in the aching tooth put arsenic

Arsenic in dentistry



In dentistry arsenic is used to kill the tooth nerve, which causes pain with caries, pulpitis and other diseases of the teeth. Arsenic is not used in pure form and in the form of ARSENICAL paste. The composition of this paste is composed of: arsenious anhydride necrotorous action antisepsis for obezzorazhivaniya pulp (camphor, thymol or carbon) and anesthetics (lidocaine, procaine or tetracaine).

Externally, the paste is a ball the size of a pinhead. It lay in the cleared channel in the pulp. Then cover with a swab moistened with camphor or phenol, and is fixed with a temporary filling. The time of action of arsenic on the nerve lasts from 2 to 7 days, depending on its quantity contained in the paste. Removing the temporary filling prescribed by your doctor. Arsenic is necessary to remove from the tooth in due time, otherwise complications can occur. After removing the temporary filling, imposed a permanent seal.

Harmful arsenic?



The minimum arsenic content shall not harm the body. However, the injury to the use of arsenic in dentistry is controversial. First, the effects of toxins on young children or the fetus of pregnant women has not been studied. If the ARSENICAL paste is accidentally swallowed, the consequences are difficult to predict. Secondly, it is seen that arsenic adversely affects the dentin of the teeth, leading to their gradual destruction. However, there are situations in which the use of arsenic justified, for example, hypersensitive to pain medications.

To avoid complications from the use of a temporary seal, it should be remembered that in any case it is impossible to prevent overexposure of ARSENICAL paste in the cavity of the tooth. It is fraught with blackening of dentin by inflammation of the pulp or periodontal tissues, destruction of the hard tissues of the tooth and even General poisoning of the body. Therefore if at expiration to get to the doctor failed, the temporary filling is necessary to remove it yourself or contact the duty doctor. After that do not delay your visit to the dentist, because the dead nerve tissue that can be removed by installation of permanent seal, can also cause serious problems.

After the installation of arsenic paste on the tooth, the pain goes away from the action of pain medication, it contains. Then the toxin blocks the nerve and begins to destroy it. When the action of anesthetics is weakened, the tooth may be a little "whining" in the first days – this means that the arsenic works. However, if the pain increases and becomes unbearable, consult a doctor.

Advice 4: How to put or lay down

Many people unknowingly make a mistake to incorrectly use the word lay down and put. The modern rules of the Russian language accurately determine when they can properly use.
How to put or lay down

Immediately it should be said that the verb "lay down" does not exist. Even if you write it word to Word it will underline it red, and in the dictionary to find it impossible. Modified forms (past and future) does not exist. To use this verb can only be consoles, for example, to put, to lay, to put , and so on. It is worth noting that these words are just perfect.

The verb to lay should be used without any subscripts. Despite the fact that in olden times there was the word "poklast, now it has dropped out of the speech of turnover and is considered archaic. "Poklady", "perekladi" and the like can not be used. Otherwise, the verb put can be used as you want (in any shape, form, and time): put, gonna put , and so on.

So how to put or lay down? Of course, a put, but nothing prevents you to add a prefix and to use the word "put". However, it is better to use in the case when you want to say that the action is absolutely in the future or has already been committed. The emphasis on duration. For example, don't forget to put the keys back when I get back from town. In other cases it will be appropriate to use the word put.

Advice 5: How to lay concrete

Aerated concrete has a number of indisputable advantages before other construction materials. It blocks that retain heat well and do not cause trouble in the clutch.
How to lay concrete
You will need
  • Cement, sand, rope, construction level and plumb, aerocrete.
Instruction
1
Mix cement mortar in the ratio of 1 part cement, 3 parts sand. This mixture should be used for laying the first row. The remaining rows it is better to use a special glue or mortar.
2
Begin construction of aerated concrete walls with the corners of the building. As you would with a normal bricks, follow the packing joints.
3
Check vertical and horizontal plane of the block. Do it with a special plumb Bob and a level.
4
Stretch the string between the blocks of concrete, forming the edge of the future wall. To fix it should be to the upper corners of the blocks. The rope must be stretched perfectly straight, so use a level.
5
Put one block after another, focusing on the level of the rope. Adjust the height of the packing of the seam below the surface of the first row of blocks was smooth. Depends on the quality of masonry throughout the walls, and thus the structure as a whole.
6
Check after every two or three rows of blocks at the wall both horizontal and vertical. In some cases, the wall can shift to the side. This situation can be easily remedied. It should return the blocks in place, lightly hitting him with a trowel.
7
Provide forced ventilation in the building process. This will accelerate the drying of the blocks.
Note
Aerated concrete is divided into three types of density: D 500, D 400, D 300.

Type D 500 - the highest density of aerated concrete blocks, used for masonry bearing walls structures called structural-insulating. It is not recommended to use for the construction of non-bearing partitions, because of the large load on the surface increases the load on the Foundation of the entire structure.

Type D 400 - the average density of aerated concrete blocks, also called thermo insulating, but can withstand much lower structural loads than concrete class D 500.

Type D 300 is the low density of aerated concrete. Such a block is called insulation. Does not withstand structural loads and is used as insulation.
Useful advice
Aerated very well with adhesives, paints, plasters and mortars for masonry. In order to easily cut aerated concrete block will fit the saw and using a drill it's easy to drill.

Advice 6: How to lay Foundation blocks

Construction of brick houses requires certain knowledge and skills. For example, to build yourself a country cottage, you start with learning the basics of architecture of residential buildings. And the house, of course, begin to build with the code quality of the Foundation.
How to lay Foundation blocks
Instruction
1
Start with learning the blueprints of your home. Plan of the foundations is an integral part of any construction drawing. Remember that the Foundation blocks are placed only under the load-bearing outer and internal bearing walls of the house. The blocks of the Foundation walls are formed on the plants of concrete grade of 100 or 200 (enhanced).
2
Prepare the Foundation for construction work, to be completed with mounting hardware base plate. Foundation blocks are commonly the walls of the basement, so to properly calculate their number for further convenient use. Slabs and blocks have a securing loop so that it is easy to capture and understand.
3
Lay the Foundation blocks in cement-sand mortar thickness of 20 mm using a ligation of vertical joints. The installation should be performed as shown in the project, so no problems with communication to home.
4
Foundation blocks lay only on the leveled surface. If the construction is carried out without base seat and using hollow blocks, pre-place a layer of concrete on the ground.
5
The blocks used for foundations exposed to aggressive environments, are made with additives to increase resistance of concrete. But don't forget about the insulation of the event. To protect the basement walls from penetration of capillary moisture use the horizontal okleechnoy waterproofing, membrane waterproofing of vertical surfaces in contact with ground basement walls horizontal waterproofing in the form of inclusion of the fatty layer of cement mortar in the underlying layer of the floor of the basement, profundamente drainage, limiting the level of ground waters during their seasonal rise.

Advice 7: How to check the ignition

Currently the exterior lighting system of motor vehicles are increasingly used xenon lamp. Despite the fact that they are more expensive than regular halogen, they have a lot of advantages. Xenon bulbs Shine much brighter they are economical, reliable. Integral part of the xenon lighting system is the block of ignition, which, like any other equipment, can fail.
How to check the ignition
You will need
  • - screwdriver;
  • - serviceable xenon lamp;
  • - new ignition (if necessary).
Instruction
1
Disconnect the battery wire with the sign "minus". Check the fuse corresponding to the exterior lighting system of the vehicle. If necessary, replace it with new one.
2
Check the connections of the wires coming from the ignition and anchoring of contacts, which may be weakened in the process operation of the vehicle. If your machine is set to a non-xenon*, it's likely the headlights have the adapter from the base for halogen lamps to the xenon lamps. Exclude the fault. *- non-xenon drivers are called xenon lights installed on their own, the regular xenon is set by the manufacturer.
3
Change the xenon lamp in the headlight for a new one, perhaps the reason lies in the it burnout. If you've checked and fixed all possible problems in the system of outdoor lighting, but the headlight still does not light, therefore, nesprin the ignition of the xenon. To spend time disassembling and Troubleshooting it hardly makes sense, as the unit is sealed, the electronic circuit Board inside it is soldered to the resin. So just purchase and install a new ignition.
4
Securely fasten the new ignition mounting bracket and screws. Connect the power supply, observing polarity, and then wire going from the ignition to the xenon lamps. Secure the cable harness. Connect the negative cable to the battery. Turn on the lights. If one of the lights is out even after replacing the ignition, you need to look for the cause of the malfunction in the wiring.
Note
When replacing the xenon bulb is not recommended to touch the bulb because it is made of very fragile glass which may crack.
Useful advice
Before you start an engine of the car, turn off the xenon lighting, otherwise the system may malfunction.
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