You will need
- - new rings
- - engine oil
- - hammer
- - probe
Put the car on a rack or a viewing hole. Remove the battery, distributor, carburetor, air breather hose, air filter housing. Drain the oil from the sump of the engine.
Disconnect the wire from the sensor indicating the temperature of the coolant, the key remove the pipe plug from the engine block. Drain the engine coolant. Loosen the clamp and remove the nozzle head hose "stove".
Fittings from the intake manifold disconnect the hose of the brake booster and coolant. Remove the hoses from the spigot on the front of the head unit.
At the bottom of the car remove the retaining clamp bolt to transmission with the host pipe, disconnect the pipe of the resonator. Unscrewing the 4 nuts connecting the exhaust pipe to the manifold, disconnect the pipe from the engine.
The upper nut securing air manifold remove the mechanical key. The front part of the flap secures the starter motor lower nut, Unscrew it with a key "on 13". The rear part of the flap loosen together with pin. In the exhaust manifold will appear through hole.
To facilitate removal and installation of the shield remove the lower eyelet mount. Then take the key "to 10" and remove the mount caps of the head. To relieve chain tension, loosen the cap nut its the tensioner. Through the circuit, push the pry bar on the tensioner Shoe. After the tensioner plunger drowned, tighten the cap nut.
Bend the lock washers from the antenna and Unscrew the screw securing the camshaft sprocket. Remove the sprocket and tie up chain to prevent it from falling down. Starting from the basic labels that apply to the sprocket through 90 degrees three more markers. This will facilitate the adjustment of the clearances of the engine.
Remove the camshaft housing stud head block by unscrewing the mounting nut. Unscrew the bolts fastening the cylinder head, then remove the bolt from the distributor. Remove the cylinder head gasket. The key "13" Unscrew the nuts used for fastening engine mounts.
Lift the engine over the cross member to clear the pan. Using the Jack raise the vehicle until it leaves the left front wheel. Inside the heads of the bolts retaining the sump, replace the stops and slowly lower the car. Left engine mounting will depart from the pillow. Insert into the gap formed bar of suitable size and remove the stop.
Remove the screws from the pallet and remove it. Disassemble the oil pump, the connecting rod caps with bearings. Light tapping with a hammer handle push the piston with the upper liner and the connecting rod. Do not change the liners in some places, if you do not intend to change them for new ones. Clean the upper part of the cylinder of carbon.
The top compression ring, insert into the cylinder to a depth not exceeding 5 mm, and measure with feeler gauges the gap in the joint of the ring S1. Moving the ring at the 8-10mm, measure the clearance S2. Calculate the wear of cylinder the following formula: (S2 - S1)/3,14. If the score is less than 0.15 mm, replace the worn rings on par.
Check to see if it will fit in the cylinder new rings. To do this, place them in not worn, the upper part of the cylinder. The joint at some rings if you need prepelita needle files. The joints not worn rings in the cylinders should lie within the following limits: 0,30-0,45 mm for the first compression; 0,25-0,40 mm – for oil control and second compression. When worn cylinders focus on smaller targets.
Before you install a break in the ring grooves of the pistons. Install rings on piston. Be careful not to break the rather rigid second ring having a groove in the bottom. Clean the mating surface of the block of carbon and the remnants of the strip. Two crankpin set at bottom dead center. Lubricate the piston and cylinder with motor oil. Install half of the liner in the connecting rod and lubricate it also. Insert the piston into the cylinder.
Advice 2 : How to select piston rings
Fifteen or twenty years ago, the purchase of piston rings was very serious. Now range of spare parts includes all possible details down to the smallest. However, there is a problem to choose the right parts to replace. It is the quality and reliability of piston rings and other parts of cylinder-piston group dramatically affect the life of the engine after the repair.
Currently, for vehicles produced piston rings of several nominal sizes, each accounting for 1-2 repair. One of the finest materials is high-strength special cast iron with high anti-wear properties. Not all domestic factories use this material, so pay attention to him in the first place.
Oil scraper rings are available chrome and non chrome plated. The third type is a steel ring with a spring element, choose only to install repaired motor. They are only the nominal size. Chrome rings are more suitable for engines with increased compression ratio and a more loaded mode of operation. To distinguish non chrome plated ring chrome-plated, please note the tabs. They have non chrome plated steel. And the color and those and others are the same.
Note the expansion of the spring. They should have the variable pitch winding of coils and polished surface on the outside diameter and end faces. Other forms of rings may either be fake, or to be made on cheap equipment and have a low resource. Check the profile and height of the protrusions. If they are absent or barely visible, then ring b/u.
Foreign cars are widely distributed steel oil ring due to their long service life, less weight and cost. If possible (their use is limited), get these for your domestic car.
When choosing the compression rings identify by touch the presence of chamfers on one or two sides of the outer diameter of the ring. Poor quality parts such chamfers are not. Another feature of high quality spare parts – bleached and rounded ends. Chrome plated compression rings creates a matte color. It will distinguish them from non chrome plated rings, with a steel luster. Using a micrometer, check the nominal and repair size ringthat is guaranteed to protect against forgery.
Pay attention to the marking rings. Factory label indicating the size and the firm is placed automatically in a strictly fixed place. On the forgery there are always deviations from the installed location. In addition, make sure that the rings are Packed in the original packaging in bags of 3 pieces. The packet must include: a set number, engine model and size of the rings. In the box is the number of cylindroconical-bags corresponding to the number of engine cylinders for which they are intended. All labels must be printed in one font, there should be a stamp of OTK, the point of gluing the box to be in certain places.
For orientation in range of piston rings use the technical documentation on repair and spare parts of the engine. There are specified the required dimensions of piston rings required for a particular repair of the power unit.
Setting ring small lifespan, you reduce wear of cylinder walls and longer life for the engine. But at the same time every 30-40 thousand km will have to completely disassemble the engine and change the rings. Durable rings will last 150-200 thousand km After such a mileage in both cases you will have to grind the crankshaft, and change its ear and do minor repair of cylinder-piston group. Calculate how much it will cost disassembly and Assembly of the engine every 30-40 thousand km for 200-thousand mileage and decide whether this concern about the engine of financial and labor costs.